Folk Singer Malini Awasthi and Textile Expert Share Essential Tips for Preserving Heirloom Sarees

Preserving heirloom sarees requires careful attention to storage conditions, as incorrect methods can cause gradual and permanent damage to delicate fabrics. Folk singer Malini Awasthi recently shared her traditional saree-care practices, detailing how she has kept her own sarees intact for more than 40 years. Speaking to Hauterfly, Awasthi highlighted the importance of avoiding plastic bags and open naphthalene balls when storing these valued garments.

"Don’t put naphthalene balls open like this," Awasthi said. "And secondly, big no-no to plastic bags. Because when they’re sealed in plastic, moisture comes out of the air. Water will come out of the bag, and then that spot never goes. It will oxidise and turn black."

To keep sarees preserved over decades, Awasthi recommended wrapping the garments in cloth. "The best way is to wrap the cloth in it. But there should be a hole at the bottom of the sari," she explained. "Traditionally, we keep saris in the box. We put the cloth in the box, put the saris in the box, and then close it with the cloth."

The Risks of Plastic Storage and Moisture

Paridhi Dhanuka, Assistant Professor of Fashion & Textiles at Pearl Academy, supported Awasthi's warnings against plastic storage. Drawing from her experience working with Banarasi handloom sarees, Dhanuka explained that plastic covers are highly unsuitable for long-term storage, particularly for pure silk and zari sarees.

"Plastic does not allow the textile to breathe, so if there is any moisture in the saree, in the cupboard, or in the weather at the time of storing, it can remain trapped," Dhanuka told indianexpress.com. Over time, this trapped moisture can lead to a mildew smell, dark spots, and weakened fabric. For zari sarees, moisture can cause the metallic threads to oxidise, resulting in a dull or discoloured appearance.

Dhanuka also noted that residues left on the fabric can react negatively during storage. Fragrances, perfumes, deodorants, and the wearer's sweat can react with the fabric and zari if the saree is stored without being properly aired or cleaned beforehand.

The Impact of Naphthalene and Chemical Exposure

While naphthalene balls are commonly used to deter pests, Dhanuka advised against storing them openly with expensive or heirloom sarees. Because naphthalene slowly evaporates into the air, prolonged inhalation of its fumes can be harmful to humans, making it undesirable to keep them open in living spaces and wardrobes.

"For delicate silk, zari, and old heirloom textiles, the strong fumes and smell are not ideal," Dhanuka said. "We should avoid direct chemical exposure around natural fibres, dyes, and metallic threads."

Instead of chemical repellents, Dhanuka suggested using traditional natural alternatives like dried neem leaves and cloves. To prevent direct contact with the fabric, these natural alternatives should be placed inside a small cotton or muslin pouch rather than directly on the saree.

Dhanuka also clarified the conditions that attract pests, noting that moths are typically drawn to natural textiles that have been left undisturbed for long periods, especially if the fabric contains sweat, food stains, dust, or humidity. This highlights the necessity of thoroughly cleaning and airing sarees before putting them away.

Recommended Methods for Long-Term Preservation

According to Dhanuka, the primary rule of saree preservation is to ensure the garment is completely dry and clean before storage. For long-term preservation of Banarasi silk, zari, brocade, and heirloom sarees, plastic should be avoided entirely in favour of breathable natural fabrics.

Using a muslin bag or wrapping the garment in a clean cotton or mulmul dupatta are effective options. "The main idea is to use a breathable natural fabric instead of plastic," Dhanuka explained.

For highly delicate sarees, Dhanuka recommended rolling the fabric onto a wooden rod or an archival tube and covering it with muslin, which helps reduce hard fold lines. If rolling is not feasible, the saree should be folded gently, and the position of the folds should be changed every few months to prevent the fabric from weakening along the creases.

To ensure the longevity of delicate textiles, collectors and saree owners can follow these key storage guidelines:

• Choose a dark, dry cupboard and avoid damp or poorly ventilated spaces.
• Keep sarees away from direct sunlight, as prolonged exposure can fade colours and weaken silk fibres.
• Air the garments occasionally during dry weather, keeping them away from harsh sunlight.
• Avoid heavy stacking to prevent placing excessive weight on delicate fabrics.
• Use dried neem leaves or cloves kept in small cotton or muslin pouches for pest protection.
• Pay close attention to zari, as moisture can cause the oxidation and discolouration of metallic threads.
• Always handle heirloom textiles with clean, dry hands.